Sarà un PROBLEMA ripartire per me – GIRO D’ITALIA IN MOTO – ep6-s4
Let’s start from the Ponte della Maddalena, or Devil’s Bridge, which we saw last night after staying at the Hotel Milano, which offers a garage in a building right next to the hotel. We’re along the Via Francigena in Tuscany, one of the various Roman roads that crisscrossed Europe and touched the most sacred sanctuaries and cities of the then-known world. I’ll take you with me to the Ponte del Diavolo, as it’s known in popular parlance, although the actual name is actually Ponte della Maddalena. It was built around the year 1000 by Countess Matilda of Canossa, who held great sway in the Garfagnana area. Where did we enter? The structure we see today dates back to the year 1300, when its classic medieval humpback shape was rebuilt, featuring a distinctive feature unique to these parts: asymmetrical arches. We know that many bridges throughout Italy are called the Ponte del Diavolo, due to the oral traditions passed down by word of mouth over the centuries. This bridge, in particular, seems to have a story all its own , thanks to the foreman who was building it, who was gripped by anxiety about not being able to finish it and the consequences that would have. He made a pact with the devil to be able to finish it on time, who asked in exchange for the soul of the first person to cross the bridge. Regretting his agreement, and advised by a local clergyman, he let a pig cross, effectively mocking the agreement he had made with the devil. And good morning from me too. Today’s itinerary is quite ambitious because the idea is to do it all inside, but as always, along the way, when we get tired, we’ll surely decide whether or not to change. So, I’m proud to have come here for the first time. For Francesco, it wasn’t his first time ; he was the first person to cross, but he accompanied me on this tour of Borgo a Mozzano. Enough of that bullshit. Let’s go. The bridge still connects the two banks of the Serchio River. We head toward Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, leaving behind the marvel of the Borgo a Mozzano bridge. No. We’re in the center of Castelnuovo, the de facto capital of the Carfagnana area. We’re in front of the Ariosto fortress. Imagine 500 years ago, because from 1522 to 1525, Ludovico Ariosto was governor of the Garfagnana, then part of the Este province. The fortress, which has undergone years of renovation, now houses a museum dedicated to the great poet. An often significant history and traditions passed down, guaranteeing the authenticity of the place. All this, they say, is the Garfagnana, where traffic suddenly seems to disappear. In any case, our destination is very close, 1.5 km past the Careggine factories. In the meantime, I’ll leave my visor open so you can hear the noise of the ACRA along with us, which is a crazy gutter. We’re in the municipality of Vagli Sotto, and this is Lake Vagli. A man-made reservoir that harnesses the waters of the Edron River. Beneath these waters lies a veritable ghost town— Careggine factories. About 800 years ago, blacksmiths from Brescia moved to this area. Thirty-one houses, a church, and everything a village needed to survive were suddenly submerged in 1947 when the Edron River was dammed to build a hydroelectric plant. This lake has been drained several times for maintenance work , and tourists flock to the area to enjoy the village and its ruins, now submerged by water. The last time it was drained was in 1994, and it looks like it will happen again in 2026. Parking among the alleys of Careggine factories means experiencing the normality of a village of about 140 souls, where daily life has continued for nearly eight centuries. We’re off to escape the heat, because we’re heading 1,000 meters above sea level to an interesting spot in the Apuan Alps. We’d like to say hello to the guys from the Piacenza hills we just met. Monica and her husband. Maybe they’ll recognize themselves in this video. They came shyly to talk to us. They even cursed us for the upgrade on the motorcycle they plan to do, also seeing… The big sister, but we wish you the best, but you’ll feel it anyway. We’re on the road to Campocatino, a true natural paradise. Thanks to Marco for the tip. He even phoned us this morning and said, “Don’t forget Campo Catino.” We’re in the heart of the Apuan Alps. Look at the beauty. The last stretch before reaching City Camp Catino has been conquered. Stone houses, a little restaurant. Oh my, even stone passages. And now, like true heroes, helmets and overalls on, 10 meters to reach the observatory and admire the spectacle beyond. And we can truly tell you where we’re taking you. With the Rocca Andagia rock dominating and a symbol of the Apuan Alps. You walk among the shepherds’ houses built in the 15th century that tell stories of transhumance, and they speak of aged cheeses, typical gray stone dwellings, and statues that testify to the unfailing bond between man and nature. We decided to grab a quick bite to eat, since it’s called the Campocatino refuge and it’s a proper restaurant. They brought some platters, folks, that were mind-blowing. I didn’t see them, so that’s good for you. You’re feeling less bad. But there are also some sweets, one in particular with plum and almond jam. Did you order it? I didn’t order it because I’ll have it when we get coffee. I’m getting divorced, as my grandfather used to say. Now, to keep us from getting too thirsty, given the temperature of 30°C, I’ll have some cooked ham and fontina cheese, so we don’t overdo it. We’re on a diet, and reluctantly we’re leaving this little oasis of peace because you can truly enjoy the peace these areas exude, offering completely free and profound. To get down as quickly as possible, check the road on your satnav. Four steep hairpin bends will take us to Lake Gramolazzo. We’ve reached Gramolazzo, still in Barbicata. It’s a rule we’ve become accustomed to in all the Apennine villages, from our own Umbrian-Marche region to the Tuscan-Romagnan and Tuscan-Emilian regions. An artificial lake created by damming the Serchio River for hydroelectric power generation . Its banks allow for fun and entertainment in this spot nestled within the splendid Apuan Alps, thickly wooded with a large rock towering above. There’s also a pleasant little beach where you could take a break. Objectively, judging by the color of the water, but above all, the sheer number of people bathing— it’s 34°C and we’re wearing helmets and wetsuits—it’s almost as if a dip wouldn’t be a bad idea. There’s also a walk, and then the towns and villages return to their perfect medieval style, a sort of castle-fortress, having reached us in perfect condition. These are the things that make Italy great in the world, beyond the grandeur of Rome and all that the great cities have created— Venice, Florence—but what international tourists always have in mind about Italy are precisely these pearls of villages, witnesses to a turbulent and eventful past. Arriving in Giuncugnano, a municipality of Sillano, which marks the border with Emilia Romagna, we have a beautiful view precisely because Giuncugnano is considered the highest town in the Garfagnana. What we have here in front of us should be one of the peaks, the Pisanino, the highest peak in the Garfagnana at 1,946 meters. Now 24 km, which translates into 40 minutes to reach Aulla. Arrival time 4:54 PM, and there we have to decide whether to take the highway to go up or turn right and go inland. Then Pontremoli, Bobbio, Barzi, etc. etc. He told me to slow down. I don’t know if there’s a rally. What a sight. A pile of vintage cars. The Tipo No, the barchetta was the last one. Yes, the 600, one of Fiat’s ugliest cars. As we prepare to leave Garfagnana to enter Lunigiana, the region that extends towards Liguria, always a border land and a passageway for pilgrims and merchants heading from northern Italy towards the Tyrrhenian Sea. But look where they built. I’d like to speak to the man who laid the first brick. For this reason, beautiful The irresistible name Lunigiana derives from Luni, the ancient Roman city on the banks of the Magra River, which today roughly corresponds to the current city of Sarzana in Liguria. Hello Sarzana. Beautiful city, by the way. We won’t be in your area this time, but we’ll be coming soon. We’re getting a bit lost, but you know us well by now; we love getting lost this way. Oh, oh. Let’s take this curve. I want to share, as I always do, a profound thought that transcends history. Every village you pass through, even the smallest, is served by a Due Fontane bar. So it’s absolutely true that you’re in the middle of nowhere, but at the same time it’s true that you don’t have to wait in line at the supermarket and carry home crates and crates of water. The asphalt isn’t in the best condition here, but considering where we are, we have to admit it’s in pretty good condition. And we end our grand tour of Lunigiana by arriving in Firizzano. We’re in Aulla, our last bastion in Tuscany for this time, and unfortunately I have to break the promise I made to myself—not to take the highway in this fourth European season. But it’s 37°C, it’s 5:31 PM, and we still have 165 km, 2 hours to go, so I’ll arrive at 7:33 PM. We’ll take the fastest route, the highway, while if we continue on the inland route, it means 3.5 hours. So we’ve decided that we can’t always arrive very late, but especially with this temperature, it’s a bit complicated. Let’s see if the Telepass works. I haven’t used it for 6 months. Hell no. But why doesn’t it work? Look, guys, I’d take it easy, easy, easy, easy. Let’s head towards Genoa-Livorno, not the first, but the second, and we’re going to test something very interesting: the Wunderlag’s larger windshield. So we set the cruising speed to 140 km/h, giving it a little revving because it’s good to slow the engine down every now and then. For my height, and for the high seat, this windshield gets a 10. You can feel the comfort, meaning you can hear the noise from the microphone, but most importantly, the flies stop here and not on the helmet visor. Since we left, I’ve never cleaned the visor, not a single fly stuck to it. At 12 towards Genoa, still a constant 37° and 62 a7. I count this little stretch of highway among the worst, not so much for the view, which is beautiful by the way, but for the fact that the highway is narrow, there are tons of tunnels, and the speed limits are low, but we enjoy the sound of the Krapovic. We’ve finished our little stretch of highway. So, cards cards cards cards. Let’s go on the second one. I turned off the camera when we got to the toll booth, but we’ll tell you what happened later. Because when we entered, the Telepass didn’t work, and when we went to exit, before we could put the ticket in, the barrier opened and took €78 from the Telepass, which in theory I think we should have paid €6, €7, €8, something like that. So we’ll call tomorrow; we have the dashcams as evidence, and we’ll update you on the situation, hoping everything goes well. The facility is located 600 meters above sea level, so let’s hope the temperature is acceptable. We’re already in Piedmont, folks, in the province of Alessandria. We’re already in Piedmont; we left six days ago, six days to get to Piedmont. We used to arrive at the North Cape this day , so those things have changed a bit, but it’s also true that we’ve all been on crazy roads. What hasn’t changed compared to usual is that we’re arriving at 8:37 again this evening. I say we don’t learn, but we’re a disaster. In fact, I dare say we’re getting worse; it was hard to get any worse. 400 meters. Then we have to turn right. We’re in the Cabella area. A beautiful estate. The structure is interesting from the outside, the parking lot is huge. Then we go to ask if they have a special place for the motorcycle. Once we arrive, we find ourselves in Dernice, between the Curone and Borbera streams. Besides being known for its wines, Timorasso above all, It’s known for producing a cheese named after a nearby hamlet, Montebore. Let us introduce you to the owners of Tenuta Cabella. Hi, my name is Francesco. We’re at Tenuta Cabella in Ernice, in Valcurone. Hi, I’m Francesca and we’re here at Tenuta Cabella, so I share this same situation with Francesco. Hi, I’m Viola the Pear, one of the Pears at Tenuta Cabella. We’d also like to introduce you to the man in the tie. This is his weakness, unlike many other dogs, but he really offers it, so give him a scratch, right, Silvio? Why is Tenuta Cabella in this area? Because I was born not far from here, in the parallel Valcurone Valley, and so, let’s say, my roots are here, my passion was born not far from here. What is the imprint you have and what do you want to give to Tenuta Cabella, which is very young both as a structure and as a company? It’s very simple, it’s a short supply chain project. We like to call it very short, and an organic farm in the process of converting to organic because we’ve only recently started. But what do you mean by short supply chain? I mean, we start from our pastures where we raise our animals, who give us their milk based on what they eat while grazing. We process our animals’ milk here and sell our products here, both in the company premises and in the restaurant. So, the entire cheese production chain is managed internally by our company. So, let’s see if what Francesco told us is actually what happens here at Tenuta Cabella. Do you see our animals? Now you can see them inside. They’ve come in, ready for milking, having been out in the pasture all day, and you can even watch the milking process if you want. This is the milking process. Our sheep go up to this station where they’re given feed that attracts them, and then they’re milked. Afterwards, they come down, making way for those in line, as you can see above. After milking, our milk, of course, passes through the refrigeration room and arrives in the dairy building where it’s processed daily. As you can see, today’s production is here . Hi, I’m Alessio, the company’s cheesemaker. We produce mountain cheeses, all-sheep’s cheeses or a blend like Montebole, hard cheeses, and a special blue sheep’s cheese. One last interesting thing: this morning while we were at work, we saw them out on the pasture. Francesco, how long do they spend out on the pasture? Well, our animals spend the whole day on the pasture, and throughout the year, our goal is to let them roam free for about eight months of the year, depending on the weather, of course. Why so much time out on the pasture? Since our goal is to make quality cheeses, we try to source high-quality milk as easily as possible. Grazing animals are known to produce superior milk. We chose this location because we were surrounded by nature, because we saw the animals, and because we sensed there was added value and that the food was good. We’ve already sampled the restaurant since we arrived yesterday. We noticed that Francesco and Francesca have carefully selected staff , already having a background in the industry, and they went out looking for the right people. Yesterday they told us something: our project is to provide the highest quality in the hands of people who can fully express themselves and their creativity. One last interesting piece of information for motorcyclists: where to leave your bike. There’s plenty of space; we left it inside the gate, but as you can imagine, security is absolutely unrestricted around here. You can hear the background noise of the earthmoving equipment, because right now they’re building a swimming pool that’s been operational since the fall. But I want to take you to the back because we introduced you to the owners. You’ve seen a bit of how they work inside, but you haven’t seen this. Look at the spectacular view: the stables as they were built. They’re two distinct areas. Here and here. Oh, yes, they’re separated because they don’t know each other and so they fight. But because horses usually live in small herds. Before you can get them together, you have to get to know them properly, and it takes time. And how does a fight between horses usually end? And it ends up like, well, he’s very sociable, so at most he’ll hit him, he’ll get hit. And she , on the other hand, is a dominant female, a bit of a herd leader, very maternal instinct, so for example, they’ve already approached, so whatever she does there first warns them, then she stands tall, like a lion. Yes. Then if they don’t understand her language, her language kicks the ground, and so if they don’t back away and still invade her living space, then she can prance with her front paws. That’s the warning. When she needs to make it clear that someone is invading her space and therefore overdoing it, they usually turn around with their bottoms and make a kicking gesture. The kick comes precisely when there’s a situation where there’s a real lack of respect because the kick hurts. The kick, the kick, hurts and is dangerous. In fact, to come here, I took off his back shoes. Then the front shoes, I took off the back shoes yesterday because he had the mosquito problem and kept going up to her and bumping into her. At a certain point she turned around and gave her a two on three kick. Luckily, he’s tall, so I get there. Let’s say it’s pretty ineffective. You jumped with him. She’s very small for the competitions I do, in the sense that she’s a small horse for show jumping. Pure curiosity, yes. The highest jump you’ve jumped. So, when I was young I did the highest jumps, okay, no, but now let’s say I jumped 13,540, which are big. Now I’ve started riding again because I stopped riding for many years, then I started again. Okay, so I got him young, and now we’re doing the 130s. My goal is to hopefully get into the 135s next year. Is it dangerous to jump 1.40m? What can I say? Well, actually, it’s dangerous to jump even a small jump like that, in the sense that, for example, okay, I recently fell with him in a race because he hit a double hurdle, so he put his foot down wrong, so we both fell, and luckily, okay, I didn’t kill myself because I had an airbag, even an airbag like us on a motorbike. Exactly. Yes, it’s the same. Same. It worked. Electronic airbag, mechanical airbag. So, we use the mechanical one now, but they’re putting that on the market soon too, they told me the electronic one, so the future is electronic. The future is electronic, because you have to mechanically attach the saddle to the horse, just like a motorbike, identical to a motorbike. Exactly. And the only thing that, in my opinion, was the electronic one was a little more difficult to design because, obviously, you still have a lot of vibrations. Well done. Yes. And then it can still have some deviations and therefore it can explode even when it’s not needed. Very good. It’s like the motorcycle. Same. Same. But now it seems that this one, if you can’t set it, even if you get off the horse with the airbag without having, let’s say, deactivated it, it doesn’t explode if there’s a certain difference in height. However, if you, let’s say, fall on your feet. Well, I think they’ll fix it in the future, they’ll perfect it so much that that’s the future. Okay, I’m telling you, I have the lanyard, it’s not that it doesn’t give me the only problem is that every time I have to get off, you have to remember. In fact, the first few times, let’s say we have in the context of racing now, we have this a bit of this phrase that makes us laugh, let’s say. We learn to dismount without detaching the airbag , otherwise each canister costs €25. And after a very pleasant chat from which I learned so many things because I’m very ignorant on the subject, the bike, loaded as always, is ready to set off in a northwest direction because our intention is to get closer to the Alpine peaks. Hearts the ch love go all for love we going for love by going for love for love I bet you get it right but don’t get me wrong say what you got say what you got say go like a satellite just go like a Say what you got say what you got say take it to the take it all go for hope and glory. Go go B for love go for love we going for love hearts the love go all for love we going for love by going for love for love
Lasciamo la Toscana per entrare in Piemonte ma troviamo un posto che ci “blocca”…
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27 Comments
Ciao Sara e Francesco un super abbraccio❤❤❤
Ciao ci sarete a novembre in eicma?
splendido il ponte e l osservatorio
le strade nei boschi sono una goduria se poi si sfocia in un panorama meraviglioso che volere di piu, il bello della moto
che belle le scuderie. interessante il discorso dell airbag. fra un po ci faranno un pallone che ci inglobera`. comunque cerchiamlo di evitare di testarli sti airbag. ocio in giro
ciao ragazzi in l'Italia ovunque vai possiamo dire che è un splendido giardino❤
Ciao Sara! Ciao Francesco!❤❤ Mi fate venire voglia di partire🏍️😁😜
Grandi.. come al solito grazie per la bella compagnia
Buonasera ragazzi ✌🏍🐺
Bellissimo ragazzi!!!!!❤❤❤❤
Francesco : parabrezza Wunderlich e’ un plug & play?
Francesco è stato il primo passante mi ha fatto morire😆😆😆😆
Bellissimo video !!! Siete passati ( senza fermarvi, sing ! ) dalle nostre parti ( viviamo a Sarzana , nella campagna di Luni ) !!! Grazie ragazzi, un abbraccio da Ines e Giuseppe ♥♥
Meravigliosiiiiiiiiiiiiiii. Buoni KM
Ciao sono Flavio da Como pronti se siete a Alessandra siete sulla corsa ciclistica Milano San Remo allora vi aspetto alla Madonna del ghisallo Bellagio e se vi va il mitico muro di Sormano e molto altro un abbraccio
Questa è la 'mia' provincia, Lucca, una bellezza che stupisce anche me ogni volta
Ciao ragazzi sto vedendo da qualche minuto e già mi avete rapito…
Anche voi avete avuto problemi con il telepass.. io ho quello della Unipol e sono incazzatissimo… Mi dovrebbero sostituire il dispositivo… Cmq mi avete stregato con questi luoghi! E se posso fare un appunto quella marmitta fa troppo rumore per i miei gusti… Un suono costante di sottofondo ai vostri interventi…. Ma serve a qualcosa?
❤grandi
A Castelnuovo di Garfagnana spero siate andati a palerose dove dalla rocca di domenica alle ore 13 si sentono suonare a festa le campane dei 100 comuni della Garfagnana.
Un vero spettacolo.
Ciao.
Francesco, il primo passante sul ponte del diavolo…!😂😂😂😂😂
Bravissimi come sempre!!
Se hai il telepass con la moto anche se nonti apre la sbarra tu non devi prendere il biglietto come hai fatto Puoi tranquillamente proseguire passando dalla semisbarra
Quando torni a Perù?
POSTI MERAVIGLIOSI VERAMENTE. VIAGGIARE CON VOI È SEMPRE BELLISSIMO!!!!!!SIETE BRAVISSIMI E BELLISSIMI,UN ABBRACCIO FORTE A TUTTI VOI
Peccato che non siate passati dal colle di Montemarcello, la meravigliosa strada da Massa a Lerici…!
Siete diventati peggio di una droga non mi sto perdendo + un video 😂😂