Plaza de España
Jazz and legends in a Basque cultural capital
In the interior of Spain’s tradition-rich Basque Country, one city claims the cultural crown. Vitoria, also known by its Basque name of Gasteiz, was historically a commercial and cultural crossroads due to its prime position on the shortest route connecting the medieval kingdom of Castile with northern Europe.
Now, Vitorians continue the tradition of welcoming outside influences by hosting emerging and legendary jazz artists—such as trumpeter Wynton Marsalis, whose Vitoria Suite album pays tribute to the city—during the international Vitoria-Gasteiz Jazz Festival held each July. A bronze statue honoring Marsalis stands in the gardens of La Florida Park, Vitoria’s green lung and part of a ring of parks giving Vitorians more square feet of green space per inhabitant than any other Spanish city. Urban nature conservation efforts coupled with a commitment to sustainable transport—a large part of the population travels by bicycle or tram—earned Vitoria-Gasteiz the title of European Green Capital in 2012.
Planet-protecting Vitorians are equally passionate about preserving tradition, particularly in the historic quarter. The Gothic majesty of the Cathedral of Santa María tops a hill overlooking the centuries-old district. On streets that bear the names of medieval artisans’ guilds, locals throng bars and restaurants, sampling the habit-forming Basque version of tapas, known as pintxo. A plaza at the southern end of the old town is the site every August of an unusual celebration that honors the patron of the city—and the plaza’s namesake—la Virgen Blanca (the White Madonna). During the festival, a crowd gathers here to watch an effigy of a Basque villager, known as Celedón, whiz down a zip wire with his open umbrella to kick off the party. On reaching a balcony, Celedón magically “becomes” a real person who then encourages the crowd to enjoy the revels.